middle class) need not apply. So, naturally,the poorer but proud Cartagena locals decided to establish a separate series of events, centered around, of course, a beauty pageant for the Queen of Independence.

This pageant features local women who represent their barrios (neighborhoods) in Cartagena and its surroundings. In typical florid Latin American style, the organizing committee justifies the fiesta/beauty pageant by stating "The Pageant of the Queen of Independence is conceived

as an activity that not only exalts the beauty of Cartagena women, but as an instrument with which these women can exercise leadership in the community to enjoy the festivities." We didn't see much of the leadership exercising, but we did exalt their beauty, which their skimpy outfits displayed admirably.

We carried lots of coins - pennies would suffice, as long as you gave something - and they really weren't serious about the threat, anyway. Other spectators carried spray cans of mild soapy foam, and we were liberally sprayed. Considering the sweltering heat, this was actually pretty welcome, but unfortunately

the foam serves as an excellent cover for pickpockets, who spray it in your eyes and when you try to clear your vision, nab your money. We didn't bring much money, but Andi's cell phone got snatched out of a secured pocket of her purse; she felt the theft but by the time the nearby people rallied to stop the thief, he was gone. All the other revelers apologized for his actions, and we felt more welcomed than disturbed by the incident. We kept watching the parade!

Meanwhile, back to the Miss Colombia side of things. Two huge and free parades showcase

We wanted to attend the water parade, and we do have access to a boat! So we got official permission (Rob received a bright orange t-shirt emblazoned with the words "Capitán Designato"), raised Akka's anchor, and joined a hundred or so other spectator boats.

In the water parade, or ballenero, each

uncomfortable - the queens looked beautiful and blasé.

This was a long parade - 2 ½ miles - and the cadets weren't all that good at rowing. Plus, some of them were pretty distracted by their Queens, who were wearing bikinis and high heels (and their sashes, of course) and dancing to the sounds of the various sound systems on the spectator boats.

Occasionally, the cadets would stop rowing altogether and simply join in the moment.

The parade of lifeboats hugged the shore opposite our anchorage, and was separated from the spectator boats by a line of buoys. The spectator boats could -- and we did - nose right up to the buoys. As soon as all the queens had passed, the whole line of spectator

boats pulled back and sort of leapfrogged on itself to find a new vantage point to watch the whole thing all over again. And again, and again. We got to watch and wave and be waved at up close, four different times.

Some of the spectator boats had been chartered by supporters of a particular queen. They'd festooned the boats with balloons or streamers and a big banner with the queen's photo, name and title. And all the supporters on board were wearing t-shirts with the queens' image on them. When we were jockeying past one boat, they called us over and tossed us a t-shirt. Andi immediately donned the shirt, which showed the face of the Queen from North of Santander (the actual name of a district that's, well, north of the city of Santander).

No matter. Despite the huge crowds, loud music and drinking, there was some remarkably good seamanship.

On one speedboat, a man was dancing on the foredeck and attracting a lot of attention. We

As it turned out, the police didn't want to arrest him - they just wanted to take photos of him!

Akka was one of only 3 sailboats in this melee, and the only sailboat daring to get right up close to the buoy line. Despite the carnival atmosphere, the drinking and the distractions of the queens, etc., we were never bumped into. Everyone was really polite and festive, seemed delighted at our gringo participation.